Visual Commodification and Islamic Identity in Selected Indonesian Cosmetic Ads: A Critical Discourse Analysis

Ardiya Ardiya

doi:10.31849/b1ver524

Authors

Ardiya Ardiya Universitas Muhammadiyah Riau, Pekanbaru, Indonesia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.31849/b1ver524

Keywords:

Beauty advertising, Commodification, Critical discourse analysis (CDA) , Three-dimensional framework, Multimodal discourse, Semiotics

Abstract

Religious identity has become a marketable visual language in Indonesian beauty advertising, where piety, purity, and modern femininity are packaged as lifestyle cues. Yet scholarship on halal cosmetics has largely emphasized consumer attitudes and purchase intention, giving less attention to how Islamic identity is produced, normalized, and commodified through multimodal advertising design. Addressing this gap, the study examines selected Indonesian cosmetic advertisements, with a purposive focus on Wardah’s halal beauty campaign, including the Perfect Bright Moisturizer advertisement featuring Ayana Jihye Moon. Using Fairclough’s three-dimensional Critical Discourse Analysis (CDA), supported by a semiotic reading of salient visual signs, the analysis links textual choices, production and circulation practices, and wider socio-cultural conditions shaping meaning. Findings show that Islamic identity is commodified through a recurrent configuration of hijab centered imagery, prominent halal certification, and purity and safety framings that position the product as both religiously compliant and scientifically credible. Brightness and cleanliness motifs, staged gaze and posture, and positive evaluative wording further construct an aspirational Muslim femininity that is confident, modest, and future oriented. Ideologically, the discourse functions integratively by aligning Islamic ethics with contemporary self-care narratives, presenting halal as an empowering marker of responsible consumption, and framing modest beauty as compatible with professionalism, mobility, and modern lifestyles. The study specifies the discursive and semiotic mechanisms that recontextualize Islam into commercial value, with implications for multimodal CDA, critical media literacy, and ethical advertising in Muslim majority markets.

Author Biography

Ardiya Ardiya, Universitas Muhammadiyah Riau, Pekanbaru, Indonesia

Dr. Ardiya is a senior lecturer in English Language Education at FKIP, Universitas Muhammadiyah Riau, Pekanbaru, Indonesia. He holds a Master’s degree in English Language Education from Universitas Negeri Padang and a Doctoral degree from Universitas Padjadjaran. His expertise is in linguistics, with a research focus on bridging linguistic inquiry and English language education.

References

Afendi, N. A., Azizan, F. L., & Darami, A. I. (2014). Determinants of halal purchase intention: Case in Perlis. International Journal of Business and Social Research, 4(5), 118-123. https://doi.org/10.18533/ijbsr.v4i5.481

Al Kurdi, B. H., & Alshurideh, M. T. (2021). Facebook advertising as a marketing tool: Examining the influence on female cosmetic purchasing behaviour. International Journal of Online Marketing, 11(2), 52-74. https://doi.org/10.4018/IJOM.2021040104

Amani, D. (2024). The mediating effects of perceived brand integrity on brand ethical behavior and corporate brand legitimacy in halal cosmetics. Journal of Islamic Marketing, 15(6), 1461–1478. https://doi.org/10.1108/jima-06-2023-0189

Amer, M. (2023). Halal standards’ implementation in Palestinian food sector: Its drivers and impact on performance. Arab Gulf Journal of Scientific Research, 42(1), 2-29. https://doi.org/10.1108/agjsr-09-2022-0168

Arimbi, D. A. (2009). Image and the veil: A Barthesian reading of veiled Muslim women. Masyarakat, Kebudayaan dan Politik, 22(3), 189-194.

Bakar, A., Lee, R., & Rungie, C. (2013). The effects of religious symbols in product packaging on Muslim consumer responses. Australasian Marketing Journal, 21(3), 198-204. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ausmj.2013.07.002

Baysu, G., & Swyngedouw, M. (2020). What determines voting behaviors of Muslim minorities in Europe: Muslim identity or left-right ideology? Political Psychology, 41(5), 837–860. https://doi.org/10.1111/pops.12653

Briliana, V., & Mursito, N. (2017). Exploring antecedents and consequences of Indonesian Muslim youths’ attitude towards halal cosmetic products: A case study in Jakarta. Asia Pacific Management Review, 22(4), 176-184. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apmrv.2017.07.012

Bungin, B. (2019). Sosiologi komunikasi. Kencana.

Damayanti, L. R., & Puspita, R. E. (2023). Brand loyalty and halal awareness for halal beverage product among Gen Z. Ultima Management: Jurnal Ilmu Manajemen, 15(2), 198–211. https://doi.org/10.31937/manajemen.v15i2.3314

Faisal, A., Adzharuddin, N. A., & Raja Yusof, R. N. (2024). The nexus between advertising and trust: Conceptual review in the context of halal food, Malaysia. International Journal of Academic Research in Business and Social Sciences, 14(1), 600–620. https://doi.org/10.6007/ijarbss/v14-i1/19718

Federico, C. (2021). The ideological and religious bases of attitudes toward Pope Francis in the United States. Journal for the Scientific Study of Religion, 60(4), 830–851. https://doi.org/10.1111/jssr.12741

Fuchs, C. (2011). Foundations of critical media and information studies. Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9780203839891

Gabriella, J., & Sudiani, I. (2025). Halal social marketing: Building attitude toward halal portrayals through media exposure. Ilomata International Journal of Social Science, 6(3), 996–1014. https://doi.org/10.61194/ijss.v6i3.1772

Geiger-Oneto, S., & Minton, E. (2019). How religiosity influences the consumption of luxury goods: Exploration of the moral halo effect. European Journal of Marketing, 53(12), 2530–2555. https://doi.org/10.1108/ejm-01-2018-0016

Han, N. (2024). Ethical consumption as fetishism: Unmasking capitalist ideologies, social distinctions, and the educational imperative. Journal of Advertising Education, 28(2), 115–136. https://doi.org/10.1177/10980482241285003

Haryatmoko, J. (2017). Critical discourse analysis (analisis wacana kritis): Landasan teori, metodologi dan penerapan (H. Zaskuri, Ed.). Rajawali Press.

Heryanto, A. (2015). Identitas dan kenikmatan. Kepustakaan Populer Gramedia.

Hussin, S. R., Hashim, H., Yusof, R. N., & Alias, N. N. (2013). Relationship between product factors, advertising, and purchase intention of halal cosmetic. Pertanika Journal of Social Science and Humanities, 21(S), 85-100.

Ibrahim, I. S., & Akhmad, B. A. (2014). Komunikasi dan komodifikasi: Mengkaji media dan budaya dalam dinamika globalisasi. Yayasan Pustaka Obor Indonesia.

Ida, R. (2014). Metode penelitian: Studi media dan kajian budaya. Kencana.

Jalaboi, E. (2025). Semiotics of advertising: Symbolic strategies in contemporary media discourse. Technium Social Sciences Journal, 76(1), 62–75. https://doi.org/10.47577/tssj.v76i1.13233

Kaur, M., & Mutty, B. (2016). The commodification of Islam?: A critical discourse analysis of halal cosmetics brands. KEMANUSIAAN: The Asian Journal of Humanities, 23(1), 29-55. https://doi.org/10.21315/kajh2016.23.1.2

Kurasawa, A., & Horton, W. B. (Eds.). (2015). Consuming Indonesia: Consumption in Indonesia in the early 21st century. PT Gramedia Pustaka Utama.

Lee, B., & Childs, M. L. (2020). Building consumer trust in cosmetic advertisements: The effect of model ethnicity and brand origin. In International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings (Vol. 77, No. 1). Iowa State University Digital Press. https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.11789 (Semantic Scholar)

Mahliza, F., & Prasetya, P. (2023). Halal cosmetics and consumer behavior: Insight from Millennials. Journal of Enterprise and Development, 6(1), 121-132. https://doi.org/10.20414/jed.v6i1.8802

Mahmood, H., Arif, S., Tariq, R., Yazdani, N., & Kazmi, S. (2022). Semiotic approach towards analyzing TV advertisements: A critical discourse analysis. International Journal of Management Research and Emerging Sciences, 12(2), 102-133. https://doi.org/10.56536/ijmres.v12i2.170

Miftahuddin, M., Adawiyah, W., Pradipta, R., & Wihuda, F. (2022). Examining the effect of halal perceived value and perceived risk on purchase intention: A mediating role of halal trust. Innovative Marketing, 18(4), 62–73. https://doi.org/10.21511/im.18(4).2022.06

Mokhlis, S. (2009). Relevancy and measurement of religiosity in consumer behavior research. International Business Research, 2(3), 75-84. https://doi.org/10.5539/ibr.v2n3p75

Morgan, T., Igwenagu, T., Uzoagba, O., Uzoagba, C., & Egwuibe, N. (2025). Art, social media and religious discourse in Nigeria: Unpacking Okonkwo’s Facebook challenge illustrations. Journal of African Media Studies, 17(1), 73–94. https://doi.org/10.1386/jams_00136_1

Murdock, G. (2006). Marx on commodities, contradictions and globalisations: Resources for a critique of marketised culture. E-Compós, 7, 1-23. https://doi.org/10.30962/ec.95 (e-compos.org.br)

Ngaviatun, D. A. (2022). Representasi radikalisme agama dalam film Mata Tertutup karya Garin Nugroho: Analisis semiotika model Charles Sanders Pierce [Skripsi thesis, UIN Prof. K. H. Saifudin Zuhri]. Repository UIN Saifudin Zuhri. (Repository UIN Saizu)

Nursita, R., Adelia, D., Septiani, R., & Widyaputri, P. (2024). The role of non-state actors in establishing the halal ecosystem in Indonesia. Hasanuddin Journal of International Affairs, 4(1), 44-56. https://doi.org/10.31947/hjirs.v4i01.33028

Putri, E. A. (2021). Kewenangan MUI pasca terbitnya PP No. 31 Tahun 2019 tentang peraturan pelaksanaan UU No. 33 Tahun 2014 tentang jaminan produk halal. Krtha Bhayangkara, 15(2), 334-350. https://doi.org/10.31599/krtha.v15i2.1125 (Ejurnal Ubharajaya)

Saputra, T. (2022). Hikmah sedekah dalam al-Qur’an dan hadis. Gunung Djati Conference Series, 8, 347-356.

Sholihin, M., Shalihin, N., Ilhamiwati, M., & Hendrianto, H. (2022). Maqasid-based consumption intelligence: An empirical model of its application to the intention of halal purchase. International Journal of Ethics and Systems, 39(2), 402–431. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijoes-11-2021-0204

Syah, H. (2013). Dakwah dalam film Islam di Indonesia: Antara idealisme dakwah dan komodifikasi agama. Jurnal Dakwah, 14(2), 263-282. https://doi.org/10.14421/jd.2013.14204

Trihastutie, N. (2024). Screen and faith: Mediatization of religion through docudrama. Plaridel, 21(1), 97–141. https://doi.org/10.52518/2024-01trhst

Yusuf, E., Komaladewi, R., & Sudarma, Y. (2019). The importance of halal product label to building customer trust. Jurnal Ekonomi Modernisasi, 15(1), 58–66. https://doi.org/10.21067/jem.v15i1.2914

Zaman, B., & Kusumasari, D. H. (2019). Pendidikan akhlak untuk perempuan (Telaah Qur'an Surat An-Nur Ayat 31). Tadrib, 5(2), 234-246. https://doi.org/10.19109/tadrib.v5i2.4331